Chambord asparagus and Sologne strawberries, freshwater fish like pike, catfish and carp, game in season: chef Maxime Valleye, with stints at Georges Blanc and in his parents’ establishment, sings an ode to his region. Even the restaurant’s name, which is evocative of a birch tree, is in tune with Sologne’s forests. Maxime carefully crafts seasonal dishes steeped in classical overtones: pork, confit of egg yolk, spinach and goat’s cheese crumble. The classy, stylish interior of this contemporary bistro sports varnished wooden tables and vintage incandescent light bulbs. Most of the tipples on the wine list are from the Val-de-Loire.