Visible from afar, the tower of this 15C house will guide you to this gourmet haunt, which houses the chef until he can move into new premises on the other side of the road. Alexis Letellier regales his guests with a well-crafted, modern score using top-notch produce with the odd Asian note and that keeps pace with the seasons. We tasted a raviole of crunchy beetroot, fresh goat’s cheese mousse and tartare of aged beef; breast of duckling, smoked then grilled to crisp the skin, braised fennel and a gutsy olive gravy. The chef’s partner, Alice, greets guests professionally and cheerfully, offering insightful wine tips along the way. Delicate flavours, character and attractive plating: what’s not to like?