The chef helps out on farms all over Japan, forming bonds of trust with farmers. If you’re interested in the differences among various kinds of soba, we recommend the ‘Sanshu Seiro’, three kinds of soba served on a wickerwork tray. He grinds and kneads each soba differently according to type and region of origin, so the character of each shines through. Sometimes, the chef says, he mixes coarse-ground and fine-ground soba from the same region. His tireless curiosity yields a never-ending variety of flavours.