Formerly Alexandre Couillon's second-in-command at La Marine, Simon Bessonnet has set up shop in premises dating from 1860 in the heart of a wine-producing village, on the historic noble lands of the Vendée. As the contemporary interior may suggest, the chef's style of cooking is very much in tune with the times. Using regional produce (spider crab, monkfish, carp), he comes up with bold and original combinations, and chooses just the right emulsions, jus and condiments to boost his dishes (e.g. wild garlic on carp, kumquat on monkfish). For dessert, his carrot confit, white chocolate mousse, coriander, carrot cake and herb sorbet is exemplary.