Features 3 minutes 14 June 2024

Türkiye: Dining like locals in İzmir: Adil Müftüoğlu, Beğendik Abi, Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi

İzmir, one of the largest and oldest cities in Türkiye, is a true gastronomic gem. From Aegean herbs to sea fish, marinated lamb to artichokes, local ingredients are combined with centuries-old recipes here. Like any real gastronomic city, İzmir offers enjoying good dishes at very reasonable prices. Here are some of İzmir’s well-established and affordable places to eat.

Adil Müftüoğlu Uğur Lokantası

Founded in 1955, Uğur Lokantası has become synonymous with the name of its founder; today, most people know it as “Adil Müftüoğlu” rather than by its original name, “Uğur”. This family-run restaurant is now in its third generation and one of the best diners not only in İzmir, but in the whole of Türkiye.

The restaurant does not use a conventional oven. Instead, from stews to meat, pilaf to pastries, everything is cooked in a stone oven. This method ensures that all dishes are simmered at a constant temperature, enhancing their flavors with this old and traditional technique and allowing the restaurant to create a difference to even the most familiar dishes. You might ask: Why don’t all restaurants use this traditional method? Because, this cooking method emphasizes craftsmanship and culinary knowledge, there are no digital indicators and temperature settings. So, it requires severe mastery and experience.

As a trustworthy family business, Uğur Lokantası has much experience and know-how. Each family member has different responsibilities, and the siblings work harmoniously. Gökay Okyay, who studied gastronomy and works as the chef, notes that the restaurant has become an excellent place for regulars. People who used to come here as children now bring their grandchildren. Because of this long-standing tradition, the chef emphasizes the importance of keeping the recipes “completely the same.” The restaurant’s most famous dishes are kuzu tandır (lamb in tandoori), Elbasan tava (lamb casserole with yogurt), and stuffed artichoke. All the ingredients are “seasonal,” of course. The Turkish diner’s culture follows a business model where the menu changes daily, and the dishes are prepared with the best available ingredients. During the artichoke season, different artichoke dishes are served almost every day, and in the season of St. Benedict's thistle, you can taste both varieties prepared with olive oil or lamb with white sauce.

In all cases, Adil Müftüoğlu Uğur Lokantası is genuinely a flavor stop for those who want to experience authentic local cuisine in İzmir.

Adil Müftüoğlu, Main Dish // © Adil Müftüoğlu
Adil Müftüoğlu, Main Dish // © Adil Müftüoğlu
Adil Müftüoğlu, Main Dish © Adil Müftüoğlu
Adil Müftüoğlu, Main Dish © Adil Müftüoğlu

Beğendik Abi

Originally opened as a diner in Urla, Beğendik Abi is also a family-run business. Since 1999, the location and style of the restaurant have changed, but the tasteful dishes remain the same. Handan Kaygusuzer, the creator of Beğendik Abi, left her home kitchen 25 years ago and entered the restaurant kitchen, maintaining the same standards of taste. There is a family warmth and cheerfulness in the atmosphere. Handan Kaygusuzer’s son designed the space, which is tastefully decorated with family heirlooms, giving customers the feeling of enjoying a meal with relatives.

Although they had a hard time in the first few years, when Urla was still a quiet town that no one had heard of, Handan Kaygusuzer’s determination began to bear fruit after 2005. Today, as a place founded 25 years ago, Beğendik Abi is the first place that comes to mind for artichokes, olive oil dishes, and homemade food in Urla.

Of course, this success is partly due to Kaygusuzer’s co-founding the famous Urla Artichoke Festival. Urla is the home of a high-quality, low-beard, and delicious type of artichoke called the “mastic artichoke.” These artichokes have earned a geographical indication and are distributed from this town all over Türkiye. Kaygusuzer is one of the region’s long-standing residents and has played a significant role in promoting the fame of Urla’s exceptional artichoke. The Urla Artichoke Festival, now in its 10th year, includes artichoke cooking workshops, a variety of local cuisines, and talks on slow-food. Each year, dozens of regional and international chefs and gastronomy enthusiasts come to Urla for the festival that is held at the end of April or the beginning of May. They pay tribute to this remarkable plant, which has been cultivated in Anatolia and Europe for thousands of years. In other words, one of the best times to visit İzmir, especially Urla, is during the festival.

The Urla Artichoke Festival is not the only notable festival in İzmir. Another herb festival is held in another town, where dozens of different herbs are sold in bazaars, and locals prepare various herb dishes: Alaçatı Herb Festival is being held for the 13th time this year. It is an event where İzmir’s diverse, delicious, unique local herbs are presented and tasted. The festival, which includes competitions, concerts, and various cultural activities, is held annually in April. If you can’t attend during the festival days, don’t worry! Both Adil Müftüoğlu Uğur Lokantası and Beğendik Abi offer a wide selection of Aegean herbs and artichokes in season from the first days of spring, and you can try them in different variations.

Beğendik Abi, Rice Stuffed Artichoke // © Beğendik Abi
Beğendik Abi, Rice Stuffed Artichoke // © Beğendik Abi
Beğendik Abi, Urla Style Casserole // © Beğendik Abi
Beğendik Abi, Urla Style Casserole // © Beğendik Abi

Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi

As a city of many different cultures and ethnic backgrounds, İzmir is also home to many Bosnian immigrants and Ayşe Karadan is one of these. Twenty years ago, in 2004, she started making and selling Bosnian dumplings. However, she struggled to explain and promote the dish because the Bosnian “dumpling” is more like pastry than the typical Turkish dumpling. Nowadays, it is best known as “Bosnian pastry” made with ground meat, cheese, and spinach and very popular even for locals.

Located in a courtyard in Kemeraltı, Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi serves a wide variety of dishes, from stews to olive oil vegetables, as well as a wide range of mezzes. Bosnian cuisine may be relatively new to İzmir, but this restaurant has become a lunchtime favorite for people working in the neighborhood, demonstrating that the locals have embraced the restaurant and their food.

Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi, Bosniac Pastry // © Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi
Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi, Bosniac Pastry // © Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi
Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi, Bosniac Dumpling // © Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi
Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi, Bosniac Dumpling // © Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi

Header: Beğendik Abi, Urla “Mastic” Artichoke with Olive Oil // © Beğendik Abi

Features

Keep Exploring - Stories we think you will enjoy reading