Dining Out 7 minutes 07 May 2024

New Additions to MICHELIN Guide California May 2024

5 fresh and tasty spots arrive in the Golden State.

MICHELIN Guide Inspectors spend all year on the road uncovering the best restaurants to recommend—and their discoveries are too good to keep secret. In 2023, the MICHELIN Guide California selection saw the arrival of ten new Bib Gourmands, four new Green Stars, and six new One Stars. For 2024, the Golden State is off to a delicious start with the addition of ten additions in March and five more now in southern California.

From La Puente to Echo Park and Culver City, LA County saw the addition of hot spots like the North Indian dishes at Manohar’s Delhi Palace and satisfying Mediterranean skewers at Elf Cafe. Those that prefer something more playful, on the other hand, should head towards Lustig and its creative dishes like steak tartare "paprikash."

Feeling authentic Italian flavors instead? Then the handmade pastas at Cedro Italian Restaurant in Newbury Park will be right up your alley. No addition to California, however, would be complete without tacos. Arguably home to some of the best tacos in the country, SoCal is welcoming another fantastic taco option in the form of Lola Gaspar, where happy hour discounts and handmade flour tortillas await.

Below, get the story on all 5 new additions to the California selection.


Cedro Italian Restaurant
Cuisine: Italian

Three Italian friends banded together to open this welcoming spot, named for their grandparents' love for cedro, or citron, plants. Don't let the strip mall location fool you—this place is especially inviting, and the food is authentic Italian in both technique and flavor. Skillfully made by hand, pasta dishes rank high. Tagliatelle topped with a ragu sauce, grated parmesan and a drizzle of high-quality olive oil is proof positive that good ingredients and extra care always deliver the best results. Ossobuco served over a bed of saffron risotto is wonderfully tender and flavorful, and sized for sharing. End on a sweet note with their tiramisu or panna cotta—neither will disappoint.

Matteo Di Nicola / CEDRO Italian Restaurant
Matteo Di Nicola / CEDRO Italian Restaurant

Elf Cafe
Cuisine: Mediterranean

There are no elves running the show at this intimate spot but with just three people staffing the kitchen throughout service, they're certainly working like Santa's helpers. It's a wine bar, so expect a nice selection of bottles, but there's also cider and beer, as well as non-alcoholic offerings. Originally fully vegetarian, Elf Cafe has tweaked its Mediterranean-minded menu to now include animal proteins. Case in point? The lamb skewers, marinated and seared to a crisp crust. Paired with a refreshing yogurt sauce and onions hit with sumac, it's skillfull and satisfying. For a vegetable-focused plate, consider the maitake, grilled over a wood fire, topped with chimichurri, and served over a smashed potato with a ramekin of ají verde for dipping. Craving something sweet? Warm date cake with rich caramel sauce and pomegranate seeds does the trick.

Elf Cafe
Elf Cafe

Lola Gaspar
Cuisine: Mexican

This gastropub in downtown Santa Ana isn't new but a post-pandemic reset and a trip to Mexico changed Chef Luis Perez's mindset—and menu. It's all about quality over quantity here, so expect a tightly edited menu featuring tacos, quekas, and churros, but it's all very good. Happy hour discounts make sampling it all a tempting proposition. Tacos are made with handmade flour tortillas topped with a grilled tomato and dried chili salsa and filled with everything from sauteed shrimp to pork shank carnitas and suadero. Quekas feature hand-pressed masa and are served with a habanero salsa. While the vegan mushroom queka is worth ordering by itself with nicely sauteed mushrooms, confit potatoes, and guacamole, you can also opt to add cheese for a wonderful addition.

Jefferson Van Billiard / Lola Gaspar
Jefferson Van Billiard / Lola Gaspar

Lustig
Cuisine: Austrian

Clean and modern with pops of bright red to keep things playful, this spot from Chef Bernhard Mairinger is Austrian centric but draws influences from around the globe. The dishes are shareable and the wine list is as interesting as the menu, with selections skipping across central Europe. Order as a flight to pair with creative dishes such as steak tartare "paprikash," a riff on the traditional starter mixing in smoked paprika and topping with grilled asparagus, a raw quail egg and a kaiser roll. Perfectly thin and crispy wiener schnitzel is then ramped up with blistered shishito peppers and smashed roasted potatoes, while a lingonberry and yuzu chutney adds a nice hint of sweetness to round out the dish.

Wonho Frank Lee / Lustig
Wonho Frank Lee / Lustig

Manohar’s Delhi Palace
Cuisine: Indian

Manohar's Delhi Palace is a mainstay thanks to their delicious Punjabi cuisine, and there's a welcoming vibe about this place, where the waitstaff is especially friendly and attentive. Indicative of its north Indian focus, the food here leans on the milder side, so don't expect an onslaught of spices. Order à la carte or go all in on the tandoori dinner but be sure to get an order of the samosas, fried to a perfect crisp with that comforting filling of potatoes and peas. Chicken tikka masala features a generous amount of tender and juicy chicken that's skewered and seared before being added to the vibrant sauce. For dessert, the gulab jamun is a clear winner.

Manohar’s Delhi Palace
Manohar’s Delhi Palace

March's Newest Additions

West Hollywood

Amour

Cuisine: French Contemporary

Indoors or out? It's the eternal question in Los Angeles, but even more difficult to decide at Amour. Banquettes and booths beckon on the patio, while the dining room, accessed through a library stacked with vintage books, is loaded with charm down to the very last candlestick. Multicourse tasting menus are on offer or order à la carte from a menu that blends French and Asian influences, as in  chawanmushi with Perigord truffles and trout roe. New Caledonia blue prawn carpaccio and a French-style omelet with a quenelle of caviar and Comté foam are just two of the well-executed dishes. Wagyu sided by crispy matchstick potatoes is given a hint of sweetness courtesy of a swirl of beet puree, while millefeuille with dulce de leche brings it all home.  

111 Agency / Amour
111 Agency / Amour

Los Angeles

Little Fish
Cuisine: American

Once itinerant, Anna Sonenshein and Niki Vahle now welcome guests to their Echo Park location where they share space with a mini market. Come for breakfast or lunch—both are delicious. As their name suggests, the menu is seafood-focused, but steak and vegetarian offerings are also on offer. Mornings are met with items like fish tartines and fish and mushroom congee, while lunch features heartier sandwiches like their signature fried fish. The beer-battered Pacific striped bass is tender and sweet, then topped with American cheese, kewpie mayo and dill pickles on a potato bun for a midday meal that is as satisfying as they come. Not a fan of fish? The broccoli rabe melt with kabocha squash spread, provolone piuccante cheese and chili garlic is a standout. 

My-Hanh Lac / Little Fish
My-Hanh Lac / Little Fish

Liu's Cafe
Cuisine: Chinese

Liu's Cafe is just the sort of casual spot you'll come to again and again. Arrive early, as seats fill quickly, then order at the wood counter, where you'll get a sneak peek into the bustling kitchen. You'll also spy their selection of pastries, which definitely shouldn't be overlooked. Order the house-made pork wontons for a tender, tasty treat, and be sure to get the extra egg noodles to soak up that wonderfully kicky chili oil. Braised pork belly rice is another dish of pure comfort, and no matter what you have, everything is complemented by a pot of tea, such as the milk oolong. Finally, the pastries grab attention from the very beginning and closing out with a dessert like the citrus curd tart with shaved fennel salad is everything you want it to be.

Tatsu Ikeda / Liu's Cafe
Tatsu Ikeda / Liu's Cafe

Pollo a la Brasa
Cuisine: Peruvian

Peruvian in Koreatown? You bet, at least at this family-owned and run spot that has been at it for more than thirty years. Expect a casual neighborhood restaurant that's a touch warm on the inside from the heat of the live-fire cooking. All of the chicken is cooked over a wood fire that you can smell a block away and delivers smoky meat with a crispy skin that's marinated with their family secret. While there are a few options on the menu, make sure that you order the chicken by itself, or choose from their sides, but don't skip their twice-fried French fries and consider ordering a second container of their spicy green aji sauce. The wait times can be a bit long, so call ahead for take-out or wait patiently.

Chef Chris Oh / Pollo a la Brasa
Chef Chris Oh / Pollo a la Brasa

Quarter Sheets
Cuisine: Pizza

Aaron Lindell and Hannah Ziskin's Quarter Sheets has nailed that haute hipster vibe with its casual styling and vinyl and cassette collection. The word is out on this Echo Park spot, so expect a wait, but one bite of their inch-thick, pan-style pizzas makes it all worth your while. Baked to order, they're prepared with flavorful sauce and quality ingredients. Pepperoni is a classic choice, or opt for the pimento grove, a vodka sauced pizza topped with olives, 'nduja and cheese. And, while you might not expect to get serious pastries at a pizza shop, don't leave without trying at least one of Hannah Ziskin's pastries. There are a few offerings that rotate often but the signature Princess cake is a staple that's worth every bite.

Laura Mohn / Quarter Sheets Pizza
Laura Mohn / Quarter Sheets Pizza

sawa
Cuisine: Japanese

It's tucked in the basement of an office building in Downtown LA and isn't easy to find (they even send a video with directions) but this sleek, edomae-style omakase with a sprinkling of seats at the counter is worthy of a visit. Fish is sourced from Japan, with bluefin tuna hailing from Mexico and Spain, and the cocktail pairing is a nice complement. Nigiri is left to shine with a stroke of nikiri and simple toppings of yuzu kosho or ginger, but items like the shredded sous vide scallop roll prove that they're willing to be playful, too. Shrimp cake with panko-battered, deep-fried lotus root is spot on, while minced spearhead squid topped with Hokkaido bafun uni tucked in nori hits all the right notes. Soy sauce cheesecake is a smooth and rich ending. 

Kohada Konoshiro / sawa
Kohada Konoshiro / sawa

UKA
Cuisine: Japanese Contemporary

Two chefs (both formerly of the Permanent Mission of Japan to the United Nations) and two waiters take great care with the details at this sleek hideaway nestled within Japan House at the Ovation Hollywood. Here, the fish is sourced from Japan and flown in twice weekly, then cured in house. Bonito is made in house and other products are sourced locally for the best quality. It's all part of the kaiseki dining experience at UKA, where guests are invited to savor six or nine courses. Most of the menu leans traditional, as in the kabutamushi, a dumpling made with shredded turnip and filled with Japanese sea bream, while French influences make their way into dishes like grilled abalone with a butter ponzu sauce and wagyu with a red wine jus and miso butter sauce. 

UKA
UKA

San Francisco

7 Adams
Cuisine: Californian

In this city, finding a five-course menu for under a hundred dollars is a tall order. Chefs Serena and David Fisher make it seem effortless, though, bringing their signature magic to this second act in a sleek new space. The cuisine keeps an unfussy Californian simplicity, featuring solid technique and thoughtful flavor combinations that allow quality seasonal ingredients to shine. Think carefully shaped caramelle pasta that pairs a filling of sweet and nutty kabocha squash with buttery chanterelles, or crisp-skinned black cod with sunchoke confit and a finely tuned shellfish broth. Desserts never fail to end the meal on a strong note, as in a perfectly tender, moist apple crumb cake dressed up with an orange bay leaf ice cream and satsuma granita.

Tara Rudolph / 7 Adams
Tara Rudolph / 7 Adams

Beverly Hills

Funke
Cuisine: Italian

Chef Evan Funke, who also runs Felix and Mother Wolf, is at it again with this eponymous restaurant. Set in a three-story 1930s art deco building, it's a stunning tribute to Italian cooking, with handmade pasta taking center stage (there's even a glassed-in room to watch them at work). Tall ceilings, red leather booths, and stone tables with brown leather/suede chairs set a stunning tone for a menu that pulls from their sister restaurants while remaining true to itself. Start with their pillowy focaccia, then savor a plate of tender South Pacific blue prawns in a garlicky salsa verde. Handmade agnolotti is perfectly al dente with a rich and creamy filling of sugo di arrosto, erbette chard, and parmigiano reggiano. Finally, torta di cioccolato is a wonderful finish.

Wonho Frank Lee / Funke
Wonho Frank Lee / Funke

Gardena

Sushi Sonagi
Cuisine: Japanese

Don't expect to drop by Sushi Sonagi when the mood strikes, as this eight-seat sushi counter is only open on the weekends and hosts just two seatings nightly. Those who have planned ahead will be rewarded with an enticing multicourse omakase prepared by Chef Daniel Son, a second-generation sushi chef. Chawanmushi, an ankimo tart and minimally dressed nigiri are all part of the experience, though it's the dolsot sekogani, or female snow crab stone pot rice, that makes a big impression. Presented to guests in the pot, then heated to produce a crispy crust, it's then portioned to eager diners who delight in the richly seasoned meat. End with a charcoal-roasted sweet potato topped with house-made white sesame ice cream.

Christina Cheng / Sushi Sonagi
Christina Cheng / Sushi Sonagi

Hero image: 111 Agency / Amour


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