A pleasant contrast to the sleek new spots around town, this dining room's country-style curtains and front porch are a ticket to another era—and a hot ticket at that, since tables are hard to come by. Indeed, this Yountville gem could pass off as a John Wayne film set, with its wood-framed, 1916-era grocery look. Blistered, puffy crusts boast a tangy flavor of fermentation and a hint of smoke from the fire, an excellent vehicle for hearty toppings like crispy cabbage leaves paired with thinly sliced pancetta and melty gouda. House-made pasta, like chitarra with 'nduja sausage, clams and pea tendrils, are nearly as enticing, and shareable mains, like a hefty pork chop Milanese, should not be overlooked.