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Kyoto has no shortage of izakaya, casual eateries where you can enjoy ryotei and kappo fare in a relaxed environment. Step into any one of them and be greeted by the same inviting atmosphere: gentle clinks of sake cups over the chitter chatter of guests either catching up with the chef by the counter or conversing among themselves set against warm lights that enhance the nostalgia of a Kyoto machiya (traditional two-story townhouse).