North Carolina bluefin tuna carpaccio over xo sauce or girella pasta stuffed with boudin noir, pea puree, and brodo. There are few rules at this easygoing East Village standout, which has no trouble taking risks. The eclectic menu sources local, watches the seasons carefully, and does what it pleases. Case in point: A recent dessert featuring a smooth white asparagus gelato with shards of pink peppercorn meringue and grilled strawberries. Aim to sit at the long bar that anchors the narrow room. It’s where you’ll meet a genuinely friendly host of servers and maybe even one of the owners. Wines are thoughtfully curated and comfortably priced.