This was not my first visit to Hélène Darroze at The Connaught. And it wasn’t the first time I have been struck by the sheer unimpeachable quality of it all. It’s the kind of restaurant where every dish is so technically refined, the service is so well-drilled and the dining room is so stylishly pristine, that the word ‘flawless’ can’t help but cross your mind. With longtime Executive Chef Marco Zampese seamlessly executing Darroze’s signature style – French classics with an international touch, where ingredient quality is paramount – it is an experience I can wholeheartedly recommend.
Elegance at Every Turn
The great thing about arriving at Hélène Darroze’s restaurant is that it also means arriving at The Connaught, which is always a pleasure. Ensure you allow a little time before your meal to marvel at this grand dame of a hotel, which has been one of the bastions of London luxury for decades, and still gives me a thrill every time I arrive. A top-hatted doorman at the entrance was charming, ushering us through the kind of heavy rotating doors that are archetypal of an old-school hotel like this.Once we were in the lobby, I was struck by the way its sense of history was combined with modernity. It doesn’t have the grandeur you might expect, but rather an understated elegance. We made our way to the restaurant, walking past the renowned Connaught Bar (a truly beautiful space) on the way. Inside, Darroze’s dining room continues the elegance of the hotel, but with a softer, warmer style. Light wood panelling and pastel colours contribute to a bright, open feel, while the immaculately laid tables are exactly as you’d expect. There are no bad seats, but the ones by the window would be particularly good for lunchtime, bathed in natural light.
Silver Service at a Gold Standard
From the moment we entered and were greeted by three different members of staff, the service was straight from the high-end gastronomy handbook. That’s not to say it lacked personality; in fact, the team all balanced formality with friendliness in a way that made a difficult skill look easy. There was nothing forced about any of it; everyone felt so natural in their roles and the high level of attentiveness never felt over-indulgent.I particularly enjoyed the wine service, where I got to engage with our sommelier and discuss his passion for wine. It never felt like someone was just trying to sell us an expensive bottle; like all the team, he really cared about our experience. The pace of the meal, too, was spot-on. Expect a roughly four-hour experience, but one that glides by seamlessly so it feels like no time has passed at all.
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The Highest of Highlights
One of the best compliments I could give to Hélène Darroze at The Connaught is that it would be at the top of my list of restaurants for teaching young chefs about the principles of great food. Darroze has passed on to her team an appreciation of quality ingredients and an understanding of how best to use them. What struck me most throughout was the detail and immense technical skill on every plate. This is a restaurant where nothing is out of place; each dish looked like a work of art and tasted like it too.The seasonal tasting menu served here is impressively consistent, but a handful of courses lingered in my memory particularly long.
Tomato, Sardine, Pantelleria Capers, Marjoram
This was one of the earliest indicators of the kitchen’s confidence in their outstanding ingredients. You could say the dish looked strikingly simple – but to have messed around with such deliciously pure flavours would have been a crime. A picture-perfect slice of tomato held so much flavour and was enhanced by the presence of lightly salted sardines, tiny marjoram buds and perky Pantelleria capers. On the side was a tomato focaccia topped with lightly pickled tomato skins, and finally a tea-like ‘gazpacho’ bursting with seasonal freshness.Squid (Surprise Course)
This was one of the ‘surprise’ dishes that we received despite it not being listed on the menu – and what a delightful surprise it was. The meltingly soft Hebridean squid was served in a rich squid ink sauce that was balanced by the freshness of sea lettuce. Tiny cubes of Charlotte potato and puffed quinoa added different textures to the composition, while some fragrant basil was the perfect finishing note.Lobster, Tandoori Spices, Carrot, Citrus, Coriander
This is one of Hélène Darroze’s signature dishes and it’s easy to see why. Sometimes served with scallop, we got the lobster version and it delivered pure culinary joy. The meaty lobster tail had been roasted in a delicate array of tandoor spices that delivered a subtle punch. Accompanying this was a buttery carrot purée studded with coriander oil and laden with citrus for a little extra zip. Finally, the lobster claw was served in a classic glossy lobster and chicken jus with just-sautéed spring onion and leek.
Signature Baba, Smoked Madagascar Vanilla Chantilly Cream, Apricot
I paid an extra supplement to have this dish, which is another Darroze signature. Each element was outstanding: the savarin was beautifully light and gently caramelised on the outer; the silky Chantilly cream had a smoky vanilla flavour; and the Armagnac used to douse the sponge was one from the Darroze family themselves, with a choice of vintages given. Expertly roasted apricot and a smooth apricot sorbet completed a classic French dish from the very top drawer.Inspector's Tips
- If I had to give you one piece of advice, it would be to arrive at the hotel early and go for a pre-dinner drink in The Connaught Bar. Beloved by chefs and celebrities alike, this renowned cocktail spot is one of London's most revered places for a martini.
- The tasting menu comes with the option of a supplement at each course. These can increase the bill a lot, but do offer some seriously premium produce, such as caviar and wagyu beef. The only supplement I paid was for the Signature Baba and, whilst it was impeccable, my colleague was equally impressed by the chocolate and Earl Grey tea concoction from the main menu.
- If you're visiting from out of town and need a hotel, look no further than The Connaught itself. It might come at a price, but it's simply one of the most luxurious and historic hotels you will find in the city.
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Hero Image: Scallop with tandoori spices from Hélène Darroze at The Connaught. © Justin De Souza
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