With the Michelin Inspectors on the road throughout the year, they eat a vast array of dishes from all cuisine types and restaurant styles. Each month we ask our Inspectors to choose a stand-out dish from the past month's restaurant visits. This could be the most creative dish they ate, something that hit the right note at just the right time or simply the one that stuck in their memory for the longest.
April 2024
Glazed rare breed beef, charred leeks, black garlic – Celentano’s, Glasgow
“Entirely befitting of a Bib Gourmand restaurant, this dish was hearty, full of flavour and so satisfying to eat – all while showcasing the care and skill of the Celentano’s kitchen team. The beef itself had an appearance not unlike brisket, and was tender to cut, while the thin layer of fat on the meat had been rendered well. It was served with charred baby leeks, a creamy black garlic purée and some finely chopped herbs. A slightly reduced sauce added an extra layer of flavour to finish off the dish.”
Mauritius vanilla cube, roasted pineapple, salted caramel – Gauthier – Soho, London
“Some might think it’s hard to make a rich and creamy dessert that’s also plant-based, but clearly they haven’t had this fine cube of soft vanilla mousse. The assured and strikingly simple presentation made the dish look all the more inviting, and then the intensity of the vanilla flavour delivered on that promise. A wafer-thin, crisp chocolate shell provided a contrast of texture, while super-fruity pineapple compote and glossy salted caramel sauce both worked well to enhance the dish.”
Fritto misto – Norma, London
“For any London diners seeking a big slice of true Sicilian generosity, look no further than Norma on Charlotte Street. As my starter arrived, I feared I had mistakenly ordered two main courses such was the scale of the enticing ‘fritto’ seafood that came my way. Sea bass polpette, tender squid and delicious red prawns were all included, and given extra flavour by preserved lemon and a chilli aioli topped with red sorrel. It was enough to share – not that I wanted to – but I still found space for an equally super-sized cannoli to finish.”
March 2024
Herdwick Hogget, Mushroom Cream, Asparagus, Morels and Périgord Truffle – White Swan, Fence
“Inside this lovely rustic pub, Chef-Owner Tom Parker imbues every dish with maximum flavour and shows true understanding in his careful balance of ingredients. This was all encapsulated in this superb dish, which was centred around an intense, excellent quality piece of hogget. The meat was enhanced by some large morels filled with a consummately seasoned mushroom cream, along with the grassy tones of the asparagus. Musky truffle and the richness of the sauce rounded off the dish’s flavour profile beautifully.”
Hazelnut, Banana, Caramel – Faru, Durham
“The main element of this finely crafted dessert was a hazelnut parfait, which was served at just the right temperature to deliver a creamy, velvety texture while retaining that delicious hazelnut flavour. It sat on a thin, sweet biscuit and slices of ripe banana in a light caramel, then topped with banana sorbet that was so smooth and nailed its flavour so well that even banana sceptics would be impressed. Golden raisin jelly, rum jelly and crunchy praline rounds completed the dish, while dark chocolate sprayed around the edges provided a neat, refined appearance.”
Seville Orange Marmalade Pudding, Drambuie Custard – 33 The Homend, Ledbury
“My eyes light up whenever I see a sponge pudding on a menu, so I was looking forward to this. Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of its appearance; this moist, rich sponge was superb – brimming with Seville orange flavour and accompanied by a stunning, silky custard that carried just the right amount of the oft-overlooked Drambuie liqueur. This dish was proof, if we need it, that sometimes the simplest, most traditional desserts can be the best. A friend of mine remembers it fondly from a few years ago, which speaks volumes.”
