This swanky space, decked out in sunny tones of peach and carrot with a retro-meets-modern vibe, certainly looks the part for an elegant night out, especially given the attentive team of uniformed servers. The cooking combines a reverence for top-quality ingredients with a basis in classic technique along with a hint of playfulness. Take, for example, crispy, creamy potato “churros,” served with a fluffy, creamy caramelized onion dip (and an optional addition of caviar), or a roasted chicken paired with grilled chicories and sauce vin jaune. For dessert, an indulgent chocolate “candy bar” layered with peanut and caramel mousse is pleasingly nostalgic. The prices may be nothing to sneeze at, but guests are certain to be well taken care of—and well fed.