Monte Alban

Its environs may be modest, but the décor inside this rustic gem is colorful, featuring floor-to-ceiling murals, brick arches and high-backed wooden seats. All of this combined sets an authentic backdrop for delving into their menu of carefully crafted Oaxacan cuisine.

Showcasing an array of delicacies from tamales to tlayudas, regulars may start with molote, masa dumplings filled with potatoes, chorizo and fried until golden. The house-made mole is a revelation of 32 ingredients, from almonds and chiles to chocolate, which combine to create a deep, rich and complex sauce perfect for smothering on chicken and soaking in fresh tortillas. Portions are ample, but try to save room for the subtle and seasonal pumpkin flan that arrives dripping with caramel.