In the buzzy Jourdain district of Paris, a hotspot of gentrification, head to this Golden Horse with your eyes closed. Behind an oriental red façade, you will find a pared-back interior of polished concrete, untreated walls and an open kitchen where you will sample the handiwork of an Australian chef of Philippine origins. Gallic and Chinese gourmet traditions are savvily merged and treated to an inspired new spin to the delight of a trendy, cosmopolitan crowd. Steamed cod, endive braised in ginger, apple and spring onion sauce; croque madame, shrimps and chili pepper oil; tortellini, minced veal, shiitakes and tofu mapo sauce.