"Please excuse me for a moment, I have a lunch date with my mother," said a man with the biggest shy grin on his face who just got off the stage at the MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024 launch last year, held at Capella Bangkok, his former workplace.
In the realm of fine dining, few roles are as crucial as that of the sommelier, whose expertise in pairing wine with food can elevate a meal from enjoyable to truly unforgettable. This art was exemplified in the recent announcement of the MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024 edition, where Thanakorn “Jay” Bottorff, a Thai-American sommelier at the newly minted one MICHELIN Star INDDEE, etched his name in history. He became the first Thai to clinch the MICHELIN Guide Sommelier Award.
Join us as we get to know the rising star in the world of wine and explore why being a sommelier is simply more than just drinking.
Jay at the MICHELIN Guide Thailand 2024 launch event in December 2023. (© MICHELIN Guide Thailand)
Could you share with us about your background?
“I grew up in Bangkok. As a child, I used to dream of becoming a pilot, so I could travel around the world to explore and learn about different cultures, histories, and food. That was my dream as a child. However, as I was about to finish high school at Bangkok Christian College, I started to develop an interest in the hospitality industry. I then decided to enroll in the hotel and restaurant management programme at Dusit Thani College."When did you start liking wine?
"At that time, I was in my third year at Dusit Thani College, and I had to choose a major. By chance, I came across a book about wine called 'Wines of the World: Eyewitness Companions.' After reading half of the book, that was when I decided to become a sommelier. I spent the last two years of college sitting at the back of the classroom, reading the book avidly and ignoring all other subjects."
Jay has curated a wine list from over 600 selections, including 60 wines by the glass. Ranging from classic to intriguing and new, these wines aim to deliver a memorable experience for INDDEE customers. (© Paul Divina/ INDDEE)
What was your first memory of wine?
“The first place I worked after graduating was at Elements (one MICHELIN Star) at the Okura Prestige Bangkok. The head sommelier of the hotel at the time knew that I liked wine and dreamed of becoming a sommelier. He approached me with two glasses of white wine from Pascal Jolivet, a classic wine producer from the Loire Valley. Both glasses contained Sauvignon Blanc, one from Sancerre and the other from Pouilly-Fumé. He told me, ‘You can spend as much time reading textbooks as you want, but do you know what's really important for a sommelier? It's understanding the characteristics and being able to differentiate wines from each region.’ I remember spending hours intensely smelling and tasting both glasses of wine.”
What is your dream now?
"I aspire to become a certified sommelier recognised by The Court of Master Sommeliers and to complete the ASI Sommelier course (L'Association de la Sommellerie Internationale). Additionally, I aim to pursue an advanced sake sommelier course from The Sake Sommelier Academy (SSA). I believe I still have a lot to learn, especially when it comes to pairing food with this type of beverage. Ultimately, I also want to save money to travel and visit vineyards and wineries around the world. The first place I want to visit is the Madeira Islands in Portugal." How important is the role of a sommelier in a restaurant?
"I believe that wine pairing is the most crucial part of a wine program. Selecting wines by the glass and bottle is good, but when a guest orders a wine pairing, it means they want to indulge in the full restaurant experience. While it's true that chefs can create delicious dishes, a perfect wine pairing can elevate the dining experience to another level. For me, creating a unique, memorable, and enjoyable experience for customers to immerse themselves in is what I love and value the most."“I went up on stage to receive the award with tears welled up in my eyes. As soon as the ceremony was over, I rushed to show the award to my mother. The smile on her face at that moment was beyond imaginable. This is truly a symbol of success in my life, and it will be a moment I remember for the rest of my life.”
Jay has garnered extensive experience working in top restaurants and hotels both locally and internationally. (© Paul Divina/I NDDEE)
Looking back, how do you think the wine scene has changed compared to when you first started?
“Firstly, these days, learning about wine is easier and more accessible. Previously, there were only a few good wine books available, and you had to do a lot of research on your own because not all the information was online. However, today we have many excellent textbooks, and all the information is also available online.“Secondly, customers are more daring to try new things. In the past, they might have been limited to wines from certain regions and classic grape varieties, but now customers are excited to try various grape varieties and explore new wine regions, encountering new flavors. This is a trend that I really like because sommeliers like us can enjoy our work even more.
“The second point is that anyone can become a sommelier as long as one knows about various wine styles, classic wine regions, and grape varieties. Nowadays, the Thai sommelier community places more emphasis on education and networking. To become a sommelier, you have to pass exams, and sommeliers are continuously increasing their knowledge. Meanwhile, the competition is also growing, which is a positive and clear change indicating that the Thai sommelier community will continue to develop in a positive direction.”
Could you share about a memorable wine experience or the best compliment you received from a guest?
“I have two memorable wine experiences. The first one was when I was working at L'Aterlier de Joël Robuchon during a busy hour. My boss rushed over to me, handed me a glass of wine, and asked me to taste it. As I sipped the wine, he smiled at me. I was amazed and told him that I got goosebumps. He laughed and said, "Good wine makes you feel that way." It was Domaine Arlaud Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2012, and I still remember its taste to this day. “The second event was one night when guests asked me to join them for a chat after service. They asked me to open a bottle of wine from the cellar for myself, and they would be happy to pay for it. That was such a compliment, and they wanted to repay us for pairing a memorable wine for them. It's this kind of gratitude that inspires me to continually improve myself.”
READ MORE ABOUT WINE: Match Made In Heaven: 4 Wine Experts Tell Us Their Ultimate Thai Food And Wine Pairing
Pay Jay a visit for a wonderful wine experience paired with food at INDDEE, a one MICHELIN Star Indian restaurant in Langsuan, Bangkok. (© Matylda Grzelak/ INDDEE)
What do you think led to you winning the MICHELIN Guide Sommelier Award?
"I secretly think they must have noticed my passion and dedication to wine over the years. This is evidence that we have gone beyond boundaries. I want to continuously develop myself and my wine program to new heights. My goal is to create an outstanding wine program. Firstly, to be able to offer a variety of wines per glass with unique grape varieties from around the world for imaginative and stimulating wine pairings. It's not just a list but a diary reflecting my identity and thoughts. I want it to be a wine list that guests enjoy, savour, and engage in conversation with.“Fortunately, INDDEE allowed me to fully showcase my skills and creativity, allowing me the freedom to create. However, this is just version 1.0. I still see a lot of room for development and have many ideas to work on to improve our wine program and aim for ‘the pinnacle list’ or the ultimate wine list.”
How do you feel about being the first Thai person to receive this award?
"I feel incredibly proud and honoured. I remember being so shocked when I went up on stage to receive the award that tears welled up in my eyes. As soon as the ceremony was over, I rushed to show the award to my mother. The smile on her face at that moment was beyond imaginable. This is truly a symbol of success in my life, and it will be a moment I remember for the rest of my life."
Quail creation by Chef Sachin Poojary at INDDEE. (© Matylda Grzelak/ INDDEE)
What are the key characteristics of a good sommelier?
“Firstly, never stop learning. Being a sommelier is not easy. You must understand current market trends and what will happen next. Grapes, terroir, climate, grape growing, winemaking techniques—all these topics need to be deeply explored and understood in terms of how they affect wine. Also, keep track of the laws related to wine, as well as the latest wines from around the world, which are constantly evolving."Secondly, be polite and humble at all times. When guests come to the restaurant, they want the best experience possible. I believe that a sommelier's personality should deliver an exceptional experience. For me, one of the greatest joys of this business is seeing guests leave our restaurant happy and satisfied.
"And lastly, think outside the box and constantly push your boundaries. I firmly believe that the wider the wine program, the better the dining experience for guests."
What are your favourite wines, and why?
“I like champagne, especially from producers who own their own vineyards. I prefer white wines that are aged in oak barrels and light red wines. However, I’m also interested in sake. I enjoy seeing guests' reactions when they try pairing Madeira wine, sherry, or sake with Indian food. It's a relatively new pairing for me as well!”Where are your personal favourite spots to dine out or wine out in Bangkok?
“For casual Thai food, I like Sang Tha Tien. Their stir-fried pork with shrimp and stinky beans is one of my favourites. I also enjoy strolling along Yaowarat Road after work for dinner. As for wine bars, I have several in mind, but my top 3 favorite wine bars in Bangkok are Must Wine Bar, Mod Kaew Wine Bar, and Swirl. All three places offer great food, excellent wine selections, and a vibrant, cosy atmosphere that always feels welcoming and fun.”RELATED: Have You Met Thailand's First MICHELIN Sommelier Award Winner?
Illustration image: © MICHELIN Guide Thailand
Illustration image: © MICHELIN Guide Thailand
