Conventional French wisdom has it that you shouldn't judge a tree by its bark (écorce), but we would beg to differ! In an intimate setting accommodating around 20 covers facing the kitchen, the chef demonstrates a sure touch. The dishes, always accessible and balanced, feature carefully sourced ingredients and precise sauces – a contemporary tart of vegetables and seaweed; John Dory with mushrooms, passion fruit and olive sauce; Aveyron veal cooked two ways. The wine list homes in on a handful of well-chosen labels, with some excellent pairings available by the glass.