There are some restaurants that just feel right the moment you walk in; they have that special hum and energy that successful, confidently run operations boast. That’s certainly true of Luca, where the Italian food is expertly rendered and skilfully treads a balance between tradition and modernity, with any flourishes of originality done with control and understanding. Needless to say, the ingredients, such as Hereford beef, Scottish halibut and Orkney scallops, are top drawer. For great value, choose the Express Lunch menu served in the bar.