A log-burning fire is the centrepiece of this stylishly converted 18C farmstead. In his splendid glass-fronted kitchen, chef Diffels can be seen barbecuing most of the main ingredients, which are largely locally sourced. These take centre stage in particularly creative dishes featuring rich sauces and complex flavours. Fermentation adds a vibrant twist. The chef has a gift for coaxing the best out of every ingredient. He celebrates the earthiness of celeriac, for instance, cooking it in a salt crust and combining it with Comté cheese and sherry. This chef has an artistic bent, and his dishes are truly original.