In the style of a New England seafood joint, this subterranean restaurant in the East Village is cool in all the right ways. Tables and counters fill every nook and cranny of this cozy, dimly lit hangout where Chef Nick Tamburo delivers a tight menu that is light on meat and heavy on seafood. Think amberjack belly grilled over binchotan charcoal, Boston mackerel brightened with seaweed and ginger, or a hearty bowl of beans rich with shrimp, uni, and squid. Talented sommelier Nikita Malhotra has built a wine list to match, offering mostly white wines that are bright and high-energy. For dessert, take a chance on the celery root float. Original, sophisticated, and utterly delicious, it has all the makings of a brilliant signature finale.