Larger-than-life Jean-Michel Dienst has no lack of charisma. Light years from showy cuisine, he has founded his culinary approach on authentic flavours. The lineup stars a primarily Gallic repertory of deftly crafted dishes. On arriving you will see the Molteni oven near the window. His carrot butter with Asian nuances that sublimes the intensity of scallops is proof that chef Dienst is not averse to taking liberties with traditional recipes, on condition that it be to underscore the exceptional quality of the star ingredient. On reading the menu, it is difficult not to opt for one of his signature classics, like sweetbread in walnuts coated in gravy, paired with a freshly made béarnaise sauce, a tomato carpaccio, a casserole of cèpe mushrooms and fluffy, whipped mashed potato. Generosity is clearly the baseline of this romantic restaurant, complete with living plant walls and flanked by an engaging patio, where you will sample wholehearted traditional fare and the deft flyaway touch of a seasoned chef. All of which at prices that won’t break the bank.