Chef Kevin de Porre (previously at Contraste in Paris) has returned home with a desire to pay homage to his native land – an intention clearly stated by the name of his restaurant, a reference to the regional fario trout. Supported by an enthusiastic and close-knit team, this modern and talented chef demonstrates his know-how in a surprise menu that gives pride of place to seafood and vegetables, firmly rejecting anything that is not locally sourced – a policy that includes chocolate and coffee. In an interior redesigned with the help of local artisans (for the ironwork, ceramics and cutlery), the bold dishes are intensely flavoured and masterfully executed, with subtle seasonings right from the off, in the form of cleverly designed, indulgent amuse-bouches.