In Royan, a breath of fresh air is blowing across the restaurant scene, brought not by an up-and-coming young chef, but by a couple in their fifties from Toulouse. Laurence and Philippe left Le Tire Bouchon, their Toulouse wine bar-cum-eatery, to set up shop where she grew up. As they embark on the last decade of their working lives, the pair are not letting up, creating a spirit reminiscent of that found in Parisian restaurant Le Baratin. Philippe takes care of the restaurant floor and cellar (over 200 natural and biodynamic wines); Laurence cooks up fresh, generous dishes that smack of home cooking: puff pastry tart with spring vegetables; sautéed pork cheeks with chives and soy, sweet potato purée; strawberry sablé and mascarpone.