In Gaël Orieux's compact restaurant – seating barely 30 people – the elegant contemporary interior with deceptively sleek lines exudes an unexpected calm. It's a chic and refined place in which to enjoy technically sound modern cuisine: tetragon soup with herbs, frogs' legs and smoked eel; scallops, oyster mushrooms and grape pulp, chestnut broth "espresso" and black truffle; crispy sweetbreads with peanuts, chanterelles with dried apricots and Jura wine. With the courage of his convictions, Gaël Orieux sources his ingredients from the market and only serves fish that are not endangered (black mullet, meagre, pout). The varied and carefully selected wine list offers the opportunity to try something new, all the more of a boon when wines by the glass come from magnums for superior quality.