There is a watchful eye over the experience at this intimate counter, where a multicourse contemporary tasting menu shares a singular interpretation of Japanese cuisine. The dishes are often unexpected yet always thoughtful. Spectacular seafood is a given: staple luxuries like bluefin tuna and uni are flown in weekly from Toyosu Market. Instead of the typical parade of nigiri, dishes offer unique combinations of Eastern and Western culinary sensibilities, as in the A5 olive wagyu with fried capers and aged parmesan or Spanish turbot set in a tomato and miso emulsion. An impressive list of premium sakes and wines available by the glass further enhance a meal that is leisurely paced and overseen by a friendly team that happily engages its guests.