When Gion Yorozuya was founded, its focus was on meal deliveries to teahouses and playhouses. The restaurant thrived thanks to a favourable reception from geisha and maiko, and today guests queue up at the door well before opening time. The dish of renown is the onion udon. Eager to use Kyoto foodstuffs, the chef smothers his plates in Kujo spring onion. The three pillars of the cuisine that keeps customers coming back are tender noodles, dashi and onions. “Mari”, a dish larded with pickled plums, and “Tsunoda”, enhanced with chicken meat, are named for the celebrities who favour these ingredients.