Travel 5 minutes 02 May 2024

Time-Tested Country Escapes Just Outside Paris

Seven historic chateaus, remade abbeys, and the spots that have welcomed city escapees for centuries.

Paris by The MICHELIN Guide

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It’s not that a visit to Paris is incomplete without a trip to the countryside. In one of the most beautiful cities in the world, plenty of travelers will find themselves completely content to explore every cafe and museum, arrondissement by arrondissement, bridge by bridge, until time runs out and home beckons.

But for others — the claustrophobic, the agoraphobes, the hikers, the dreamers — we’ve compiled the following guide. When you’ve had your fill of the Hausmannian and the crowds, hop in a rental or a train and you’ll find, in just about an hour or less, historic chateaus, remade abbeys, and flourishing gardens and forests that have welcomed city escapees for centuries.

Below, we’ve collected seven hotels that are destinations in and of themselves, in the bucolic countryside outside of Paris.


Domaine de Primard

Guainville

Just about an hour and fifteen minute drive from Paris, a magnificent, sprawling 18th century property that sets up in the former home of a French actress. Consider it the ultimate country house fantasy, a French chateau and estate that spans both sides of the Eure river. After a thorough transformation into a hotel in 2021, in 2024 the Guide awarded the hotel a well-deserved MICHELIN Key. Expect: a thoroughly satisfying change of scenery, including a vegetable garden and over 70 acres of grounds dotted with Highland cows, horses, sheep, and over 250 varieties of roses.

What to do? Try the first Susanne Kaufmann spa in France (with sauna, hammam, Japanese baths, and fitness area) and the 25-meter-long heated swimming pool. On the extensive grounds, venture into hiking trails or go horseback riding. That, or head over to the nearby, renowned Robert Hersant golf course.

What to eat? There are three restaurants here, all under the leadership of the talented Romain Meder (a culinary disciple of Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée). Don't miss the excellent Les Chemins (One MICHELIN Star, One Green Star), centered around super-fresh veggies.

Book Domaine de Primard with The MICHELIN Guide →


Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay © Eric Garault
Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay © Eric Garault

Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay

Cernay-la-ville

An easy drive from the capital, this sprawling former medieval abbey looks like something straight from the books of history, its stone spaces and ruined church once home to over 200 monks. This undeniably impressive building, nestled into a massive estate, was emptied after the French Revolution and sentenced to destruction. A hundred years later, Baroness Charlotte de Rothschild made it her country home, filling it with art and artifacts from her collection, restoring it to its former glory, and building several additions in its ancient style.

Transformed once again at the end of 2023 into a hotel, its 146 rooms and suites have been redesigned by Cordélia de Castellane, the artistic director of Dior Maison and Baby Dior.

What to do? Enjoy the heated swimming pool, Tata Harper Spa, and above all, a host of activities: tennis, yoga, walks in the Rambouillet National Forest, bike rides around the grounds, and boat rides on the property’s lake. You’ll even have the options of archery and hot air ballooning. And that’s without mentioning the game room, cinema, and Kids Club.

Where to eat? L’Abbaye has plenty of options on their grounds. At Les Chasses, traditional French cuisine is served in the former hunting house of the Rothschild family. And at Le Refectoire des Moines, lavish brunches are served in a magnificent space reminiscent of the great hall in Hogwarts.

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Auberge du Jeu de Paume

Chantilly

The crème de la crème of Chantilly is just about an hour by car from Paris. The Domaine de Chantilly, home to the 92-room Auberge du Jeu de Paume, is so historic there are parts of Versaille that took their inspiration from it. Awarded 1 MICHELIN Key, there’s even the extraordinary Condé museum on the estate (one of the largest collection of paintings in France). The rooms span from opulent to fit-for-a-king — no coincidence given the estate’s history of hosting royals, kings included. Materials, in every case, are as rich as they come: Italian marble in the bathrooms, fine toile de Jouy fabrics, antique hardwood furniture upholstered in velvet.

What to do? The Condé museum is a must — give yourself a full afternoon to explore. Try to the spa and a host of artisto-type activities: riding, polo and racing at the 160-acre horse stables and racecourse.

Where to eat? La Table du Connétable, a luxurious spot adjoining the gardens, offers creative cuisine highlighting plant-based and seafood products. At the Jardin d'Hiver bistro, traditional and seasonal dishes are served in the gallery or the pleasant terrace patio.

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Les Etangs de Corot

Ville-d’Avray

About a half hour from Paris by car (or an easy train from Saint-Lazare station), this pastoral hotel complex halfway to Versailles is named after Camille Corot, precursor of the Impressionists. For good reason: it was his family's country house, where he enjoyed coming to recharge and where he painted more than 250 paintings. Though full of historical elements, the 30 rooms — including nine junior suites and three suites — have been assembled with a contemporary eye. Prioritize those with a terrace and a view of the ponds lined with water lilies.

What to do? Check out the spa, with its eight cabins that open onto the pond. Enjoy the sauna, jacuzzi, and the three whirlpool baths that can be booked for private use. There’s also the option of renting bikes (electric or traditional). Plus, it’s a must to stretch your legs in the nearby Gardens of Versaille.

Where to eat? There are two restaurants here, Le Corot and Café des Artistes, in addition to a bar with excellent cocktails, fine wines, and spirits.

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Airelles Château de Versailles, Le Grand Contrôle

Versailles

A forty minute drive from Paris — Airelles Chateau de Versailles is not simply adjacent to the Château de Versailles, but actually on its grounds. And before we get started, we’ll just say that this is a place with the highest hotel honor in the MICHELIN Guide: Three Keys. Set within a recently renovated 17th-century building endowed still with the spirit of Louis XIV, in proper palace style the hotel has just seven rooms, six suites, and one lavish apartment.

All of them, at each level, bring together period-correct decor with modern luxury comforts. Picture: sumptuous furniture, portraits in gilded frames, and glittering chandeliers. The storied French designers at Maison Pierre Frey were entrusted with the renovation, and even dug into 16th century archives for inspiration.

What to do? Hotel guests benefit from guided tours of the Palace of Versailles (or the Grand or Petit Trianon). A Valmont spa and a 15-meter indoor swimming pool complete the idyllic setting.

Where to eat? By Alain Ducasse, the restaurant Le Grand Control (One Star) is inspired by the meals of the Louis XIV himself. Diners are greeted by a valet and staff in period costume – with cuisine tailored to the occasion.

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Trianon Palace

Versailles

The Waldorf Astoria Versailles – Trianon Palace stands right where the city of Versailles meets the Parc de Versailles, and is oriented to face the park that surrounds the royal estate, an idyllic view by any standard. And the hotel itself is something of a feast for the eyes — the Trianon Palace building dates back to 1910, and has been exceptionally well maintained. The top-floor rooms are especially unique; some are slanted, up under the mansard roof, and some have views of the Château itself from picture windows or private terraces. (Others face a garden or a courtyard; book a “park view” room to ensure you’re facing the estate’s grounds.)

What to do? There’s the vast, 2,800 m2 Guerlain spa, the indoor swimming pool, and of course the Versailles Palace, royal gardens, and nearby vineyards to explore.

Where to eat? La Veranda is the brasserie with a beautiful terrace, but the main attraction will always be Gordon Ramsay au Trianon (One Star).

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The Domaine des Vanneaux

L'Isle-Adam

An estate within the Golf de L'Isle Adam (one of the most beautiful courses in France) this is a peaceful place designed specifically as a convenient city escape. An interpretation of an original farm building by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, rooms are all refined minimalism with views of the golf greens, forest, or courtyard garden. Many rooms sport their own private terrace.

What to do? Check out the extensive spa offerings that include massages, yoga classes, jacuzzi, sauna, and hammam, or the heated outdoor swimming pool with its own solarium. History buffs can explore the castles of Auvers-sur-Oise, Ecouen and Chantilly, and make sure too to visit Royaumont Abbey, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture just a few minutes away from L'Isle Adam. If you come by train, the hotel provides a free shuttle service.

Where to eat? The laidback restaurant-bar with its seasonal cuisine or Le 19, the golf club restaurant with its bright terrace space. If you’re here on the weekend, stop by for tea time on the lobby terrace.

Book The Domaine des Vanneaux with The MICHELIN Guide →



Hero Image: Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay

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