When diners walk into a Mexican restaurant in the U.S., there’s usually one particular electric yellow cocktail on their minds. So what’s an ambitious sommelier to do?
“I thought about what people were looking for—margaritas—and asked myself if there were wines that could scratch that same itch. That question opened up a whole world of possibilities,” says Celia Pellegrini, the director of operations at Suerte and Este in Austin, Texas.
The winner of this year’s MICHELIN Guide Texas Sommelier Award, presented by Franciacorta, Pellegrini has put together wine lists at both restaurants that play with guest’s expectations to creative effects.
At Suerte, a charming masa-centric spot, with tacos, tetelas and carnitas on the menu, that means bottles that work well with spice and are refreshing alongside an often-hearty cuisine.
Take a dish with habanero, like the weekend pork loin and grits plate, with a beurre monté made with the pepper and corn. Habaneros, Pellegrini points out, are more than just their heat.
“They’re floral, fruity, sweet, and a little smoky,” she says. “When paired with an Alsatian skin-contact wine, those flavors sing together – two things you might never think to enjoy side by side.”
Pellegrini got her introduction to fine wine and service in San Francisco, with an early role at Lazy Bear (Two MICHELIN Stars). Later, she gained an appreciation for California natural wine and worked the tasting room at Berkeley’s pioneering Donkey & Goat Winery.
In Austin, she ran the wine program for Suerte, and in 2022, added its new sister restaurant Este to her portfolio.
With a seafood focus at Este, wine is more top of mind for diners, so Pellegrini and her team could put forward a list that’s a little more broad, pulling from coastal regions around the world.
But this is no standard, inscrutable, country-by-country tome. Wines are broken down by weight and flavor – "herbaceous and aromatic” whites, “ripe and juicy” reds – for a list that will make any guest feel comfortable at the head of the table.
“At the end of the day, we want our restaurants to feel fun and approachable. We want guests to enjoy a great meal with delicious food and drinks without worrying about making the ‘wrong’ choice,” Pellegrini says.
Hero image: Wendy Guerrero / Celia Pellegrini
