How many beignets is too many? In what feels like an easygoing tavern, these light pillows land on the table warm, filled with ricotta cheese, and topped with thin slivers of Benton’s ham. One could nearly make a meal out of them. Such is the appeal of this confident neighborhood spot from the ever-busy Chef Aaron Bludorn. Wrapped in dark wood lit under keen spotlights, the dining room has clear views of a gleaming open kitchen. Just as service is both approachable and attentive, the menu too deals in hearty, comfort fare that’s short on fuss and long on flavor. From pasta to steaks, everything is designed for sharing, especially the golden-fried half chicken. To finish, desserts like warm devil’s food cake with salted caramel are indulgent affairs.