‘Jiyusan’ is a shop on Mejiro Street. The name is a play on the street’s old name, ‘Jusanken-dori’. Delicately thin seiro soba, made purely from buckwheat served on a wicker tray, offers a pleasing finish. Inaka soba is stone-ground by hand, one grain at a time using a pestle and mortar, and delivers a rich, deep flavour. Appetisers, patiently prepared using techniques the chef learned during his apprenticeship, set the tone—such as shrimp prepared in miso and grilled, or herring fillet simmered slowly over several days.