Erwan Houssin and his pastry chef wife, Pamela, decided to drop anchor here in Leucate, which is hardly a surprise when you see the view that embraces the Sète coastline as far as the Albères mountains. Born in Brittany, Erwan grew up in the Hérault mountains and is perfectly at home with meat and fish from Languedoc to Roussillon, even going as far as Galicia sometimes. He picks the wild fennel, thyme, rosemary and savory himself on the nearby cliffs, creating incredible herbal teas, jus and sauces. Some of his signature dishes include shellfish served with baby leeks from Elne and an acidic velvety green emulsion of plankton; Mediterranean greater amberjack lacquered in black olives, runner beans in confit garlic and Lagrasse vermouth-spiked sauce; Burlat cherries poached in sweet spices, Tahitian vanilla-laced rice pudding and yoghurt and basil sorbet. Pamela’s trolley of sweet titbits at the end of the meal is to die for!