In this upmarket neighbourhood, Sancerre denotes a hill, a wine and even a great little Parisian restaurant – a location once run by the great Sancerre winegrower, Alphonse Mellot. In a modern bistro atmosphere, Anne-Cécile Faye, no stranger to the art of hospitality, extends an exuberant welcome. As for chef Éric Lecerf, he cooks up humble dishes from French popular tradition and the effect is as remarkable as it is cheering: different pâtés, offal and other filling foods, plus stuffed cabbage – the house specialty. Everything is presented on the counter; whole pies and cakes are cut to order by the waiter.