A sonnet is a 14-line poem, and so the culinary poetry here takes the form of 14 courses, each one crafted with real care by Chef Gary McDermott. He and his partner Claudia, a natural host, have created a deeply personal restaurant, with many of the dishes coming with a story attached and plenty of attention given to each of the eight tables. The cooking blends classic French techniques with some well-balanced preserved elements. In an endearing touch that is typical of the place, dinner ends with ‘Elevenses’ for you to take home and enjoy the following morning.