In a cobbled lane opposite the church, Église St Maclou, a new gourmet haven awaits foodies in the historical heart of Rouen. Japanese chef Takahiro Oikawa, a devotee of French gastronomy, cooks up his brand of seasonal French cuisine, infused with Japanese accents. He crafts wonderfully vibrant no-nonsense dishes, such as pâté en croûte with confit octopus and yuzu, aubergine-miso dip, karaage-style veal sweetbreads, followed by silky custard tart for dessert: this chef has mastered every aspect of his art. Service with a smile is provided by his wife.