The mood is the Showa era, when Pontocho was a much sleepier place. Two generations, father and son, man the kitchen, displaying their talents in ryotei cooking. ‘Obanzai’, a style of cooking beloved by Kyoto families, exudes the warmth and familiarity of the good old days. Side dishes are simply simmered and unadorned: okara (soy pulp), hijiki (black seaweed), nishin-nasu (Pacific herring with eggplant). Grilled seafood and seasonal stews are popular. ‘Daimyotaki’, dried daikon pickled and simmered in dashi, was born of the wisdom of previous generations.