The single thread for which this luxurious newcomer is named is the humble onion—the only item that can be grown year-round on the five-acre farm that supplies it. Everything else in its dizzying array of plates is carefully modulated with the seasons: a foie gras dish, for example, comes draped with sweet persimmon coulis and crushed hickory nuts in the fall, transitioning to earthy Chioggia beets and pear by mid-winter. Chef Kyle Connaughton cooked for years in Japan, and displays a skill and affinity for donabe cooking. The pots line the walls and arrive at tables bearing tender, buttery steamed cod over crisp brassicas and silky Mt. Lassen trout smoked over cherry blossom wood. Other dishes utilize the hearth, as in a finale of whole miso-glazed sweet potato dusted with cream and cocoa, and topped with chicory ice cream. Each element of the experience is treated with utmost precision, from the swank rooftop garden where diners enjoy champagne and canapés to the plush rooms at the adjoining inn, where many bed down after the meal. Yet the experience is always warm: staff contribute to the décor, chat merrily with guests, and add to the overall feeling of a rich, regional celebration of place.
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