Now firmly settled into its Chelsea home in a former tavern, Ushiwakamaru may no longer have that underground feel of a sushi-ya that only the most dedicated aficionados know about. However, it remains home to luxe sushi and excellent fish. The brief menu lists wallet-friendly à la carte specials, small plates, and cooked items like sautéed lobster and asparagus, but you may choose to ignore all that. Chef Hideo Kuribara’s true focus is on the very impressive omakase, served as a choice of 14 or 20 superb courses. A bowl of pickled cucumber stimulates the appetite as a series of cold dishes arrive, with highlights like chopped horse mackerel with green onion and shiso leaf. Then move on to sashimi that proves just how incredibly fresh the fish here is. Delve into perfectly cut octopus simply dressed with salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon; or needlefish served with a bowl of grated ginger, green onion slivers, and soy for dipping. Each morsel of nigiri is crafted at the dining counter and presented on a ceramic slab, ready to be plucked with your fingers. Expect large, cool mouthfuls of Japanese sea urchin, lightly torched fatty tuna with truffle salt, and rich shad brushed with soy.