One Star • High quality cooking, worth a stop
Over 75 USD
Downtown New York will always be a place for contemporary fine dining, but Chef Seeger boldly goes against the tide of others offering serious cooking in a casually elegant setting. Here, find a dining room that feels like a part of his own home, decorated with his own artwork, wine collection, floral arrangements, and tiered drum chandeliers covered in rosy fabric. Much of the staff wear a formal mien and the orchestrated service reflects that—as do their uniforms, which are as serious as American Gothic, but still modern. Local farmers and producers influence the nightly tasting menu with exquisite ingredients that shine in the kitchen’s very capable hands. This is the eponymous chef’s first foray into NY’s dining scene (he is still a household name in his previous home city of Atlanta). And here he crafts a seasonal cuisine that is refined, yet also restrained and muted. Highlights include a cool and intensely fresh snap pea gazpacho with wild mint and shallots, followed by supremely tender beef tenderloin in a pinot noir-jus reduction. Desserts like the rote grütze (red groats) with vanilla cream and green juniper berries make it immediately clear why this is a kitchen of serious standing.
- Notable wine list
- Wheelchair accessible
- Private dining rooms