MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
This ultra-retro tavern may feel dark and old-timey, like a watering hole where the Founding Fathers would have stopped for fortification before fending off the British. But, the massive, U-shaped bar is particularly coveted, so arrive early or prepare to wait for your absinthe drip. To accompany the stellar sips, a vast selection of oysters, clams and group-friendly seafood plateaux seem to pop up on every table. The kitchen's talent is equally clear in such preparations as luscious sea urchin served in a chilled shellfish consommé with fragrant lemongrass and thin slices of sweet grapes. Heartier appetites will delight in a thick, juicy pork Porterhouse, glazed with jus, served alongside braised kale, roasted beets and finished with zippy horseradish cream.