MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

If you can’t stand the heat, you can’t get out of this kitchen, since Spoken English is standing room-only and you’re practically right up against the stoves. Still, close quarters mean you’ll be alongside the chefs as they prep dishes like whole-roast duck with crisp skin and matched by a delicious confit salad. The menu centers around small plates and a wood-burning oven, out of which comes Wagyu short rib or grilled camembert glazed with fermented honey and smoked olive oil. Creativity runs rampant, especially in the dumpling made from fried chicken skin and stuffed with sausage, shrimp and salt cod; or the daring-but-delightful durian curry over spaghetti squash with all of the creamy, tropical flavor and none of the legendary off-putting odor.