Sidewalk seating is plentiful, but step inside Soi 38 and you’ll discover a delightfully modern and elegant dining room. Black walls are emblazoned with gold-painted images, making a dramatic first impression. While the look is upscale, the menu celebrates the street foods of Thailand, offering a blend of influences from the owners’ native Bangkok and the chef’s Northern Thai heritage. Settle in to a tall, curvy booth with a pile of friends and be sure to order gaeng hung lay, a tasty pork belly stew and the nam prik ong, a fun DIY lettuce wrap dish. Kua kling is a ground pork curry served with cucumber and green beans over rice; while seua rong hai is that holy grail of expertly grilled flank steak coupled with a spicy and crunchy green papaya salad.