Murals of Italian icons, communal tables, glass bottles that double as room dividers, greenery and skylights round out the easy-breezy vibe of "Eddie Cano. " A strong dose of tongue-in-cheek kitsch makes it impossible not to adore it, yet, there's nothing funny about the food—the kitchen turns out serious dishes in an attempt to bridge the gap between American and Italian cuisine. Regardless of which side you pick, get a pasta and you won't go wrong. Spaghetti alle vongole is as unfussed with as it should be; and the fish of the day is a solid winner, with such classic pairings as carrots with hazelnuts and ricotta. Even dessert dazzles in a restrained way. Ananas, or juicy pineapple rings topped with shaved coconut sorbet, are a light, refreshing finish.