The family behind Thip Kao has branched out with this unapologetically authentic restaurant, where funky, fresh, and fragrant is the order of the day. You won't find a meandering menu, and dishes are often swapped for specials, but you'll be rewarded with food that is prepared with care. Start with sakoo yadsai, tapioca-flour dumplings stuffed with salted-radish pork bits and topped with rings of pickled, fiery hot chili peppers. Jaew kapii elevates the standard crudité platter with its velvety, fermented shrimp dipping sauce; while the khao jee, with its thick slices of milk bread brushed in duck fat and paired with a small bowl of Maggi-cured egg yolk, then topped with crumbled chicken skin, is a deconstructed version of the Laotian street food fave.