Despite the borough’s rapid changes, it’s great to see this lovely little trattoria keep it steady. In fact, thanks to exposed brick, whitewashed arches, bare wood tables and that fiery oven as a centerpiece, dining here feels like an instant trip to Salerno by way of the Bronx. The inviting spot also boasts warm service and is a regular stop for many, so you’ll be lucky to score a seat. They’re all here for the southern-leaning fare—ranging from unexpected pizzas (think butternut squash, mushrooms and truffle cream) to pastas like “al cartoccio” baked to perfection. Also indulge in such runaway hits as linguine with spicy nero di seppia; or ragù Salernitano—a hearty amalgam of pork and beef braciole. The wine list is worthy of consideration.