Via Vai may be understated in décor—think white walls, grey wooden tables and a brick oven surrounded by subway tiles. But rest assured, as its food doesn’t mince words. From their wine list to the menu, it’s all about Italy here. The kitchen spends every morning making fresh pastas and with the likes of gnocchi orecchiette and pappardelle among the choices, you can’t go wrong. Bucatini tossed with guanciale and peppery tomato sauce is straightforward but very satisfying; and if the vast menu of 12-inch pizzas has you in a tizzy, just ask one of the servers well-versed in all the details. Otherwise, go for the Montanara white pizza, featuring a cracker-crisp crust topped with fior di latte, mascarpone, porcini purée and a sprinkle of prosciutto.