There is a spartan appearance to this sushi temple, where honey-toned bamboo slats are by far the warmest decorative feature. Reservations require confirmation and punctuality, but to sushi-loving diehards, this is just the cost of admission. Avoid the tables packed with suits (this is midtown, after all) and request a seat at the sleek counter—it’s where the magic happens. Your experience here depends entirely on the soft-spoken, attentive and very focused itamae working before you, as his signature style will guide your meal. Their mission is to ensure that each diner receives a wide variety of fish that has just been cut, formed and dressed moments before it is eaten. The kitchen lives up to its hype by ignoring new wave trends in favor of serving classically assembled and spectacularly pristine sushi. Every item is handled with the utmost care, especially the progression of sashimi highlighting the ample textures of mackerel, tuna and salmon. Outstanding clams and scallops are seasoned with a touch of lemon and sea salt flakes to enhance their natural taste; while nigiri featuring Maine and Japanese uni tastings underscore the subtle differences in flavor.