MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Japanese cuisine is often prone to reinterpretation so traditionalists, albeit fiscally unencumbered ones, will like this Edomae sushi restaurant. It certainly looks quite grand in its midtown spot—a location that makes sense as Fifth Avenue and Ginza are pretty similar places. The restaurant is also impressive inside, thanks largely to the 16 seater L-shaped cypress counter that’s the focus of the room. The only real decision you need to make is how many pieces of nigiri you want. Once you’ve done that and chosen some sake, sit back and watch the chefs make each one with quick, deft movements before placing them individually in front of you. Much of the fish is flown in from Tokyo’s Tsukiji market while the white rice is from Niigata Prefecture and is seasoned with two types of red vinegar, hence its dark hue. It’s cooked firm, so that each grain is clearly discernible in the mouth—a feature of great sushi. The nigiri follows the traditional path of starting with lighter fish and progressing through to stronger flavors, with each piece lightly brushed with nikiri. Highlights include salmon roe, succulent aji (horse mackerel) and squid, which comes dressed with a little Hokkaido uni.