This tiny pizzeria makes a splash with its panuozzo, a regional specialty hailing from Campania that’s a cross between a calzone and panino. The puffy plank of tender, salted dough emerges from San Matteo’s hand-built, wood-fired oven crusty and smoke-infused before being sliced and stuffed with first-rate ingredients (highlights include the ortolano’s fresh, house-made mozzarella, grilled eggplant, roasted sweet peppers and baby arugula).Other favorite dishes feature bright salads such as escarole with Gaeta olives, capers and gorgonzola or Neapolitan-style pizza, and the daily specials are always worth a glance. 
The room is perpetually crowded with neighborhood families and their little ones who are well cared for by an affable staff.