MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
You can thank the oak-burning smoker for the glistening slabs of meat at this Texas-style barbecue spot. Provenance is a big deal here, and the menu is littered with references to farms from which the various cuts hail. Unsurprisingly, the space has a casual flair with white wooden chairs and thick wooden beams. From the kitchen, meals arrive on metal trays and may reveal mouthwatering pulled pork with a thick tomato-based Memphis-style sauce, as well as beef ribs with a charred salt-and-pepper bark that belies the tender meat within. Meat takes center stage here no doubt, but the sides aren't an afterthought. Mac and cheese with a mornay sauce; potato salad with dried sage, caramelized onions and chives; and even smoked beets demand your attention.