MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

Celebrity chef-driven ventures don’t always pan out, but this one from Salt Bae is, well, worth its salt. He may be a meme but the food here is no joke. Walk through the oversized freezer-door entrance to arrive inside this clubby space, complete with a DJ spinning dance tunes. The theatrics are plentiful, even without Salt Bae. "Meat sushi" is the first order of business, whereby a server arrives with a trolley, flamethrower and tender sirloin. Drama aside, it tastes great. The Ottoman steak is a massive 36 oz'er, marinated in mustard sauce, grilled on an open flame and carved tableside. It boasts a terrific char, texture and should be accompanied by amply sized sides. But nobody leaves without baklava-if only for the mind-boggling flips, slaps and flourishes.