MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View
Battle past the gathering crowds and you’ll find yourself in the seductive surroundings of a restored Beaux-Arts building that hosts the NoMad hotel. One reason for its continued popularity is that Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, of Eleven Madison Park, run its restaurant. In contrast to their illustrious flagship, the cooking here is less intricate and more approachable, but still undertaken with considerable skill. Attempting “variations” of Brussels sprouts would be quite a reach for many a chef, yet here demonstrates a kitchen’s ability to turn the ordinary into the sublime. While whole-roasted chicken with black truffle and foie gras is their specialty, the cooking of all meats is done extremely well, as seen in succulent suckling pig, served with chicory and pears. Accompanying it all is a terrific wine list strong on riesling and pinot noir. To be in the heart of the action, ask for a table in the glass-ceilinged Atrium, even though it can be something of a thoroughfare for those going to and from the bar, which it adjoins. The Parlour, true to the word's original meaning, is the better choice for diners who want their conversations to involve less bellowing and more privacy.